Nikki
Eternal Elegance
The Yuki collection celebrates the union between past and present, between tradition and innovation, while evoking the timeless beauty of Saint-Gingolph pearls. Its name, "Yuki", meaning "snow" in Japanese, evokes both the dazzling purity of the eternal snows of Mount Fuji and the tranquility of the snow-capped mountains lining the shores of Lake Geneva. Like the pearls of Saint-Gingolph, born of an age-old heritage and crafted with meticulous precision, the immaculate snows of Mount Fuji symbolize perfection and eternity. They inspire contemplation and meditation, and captivate with their timeless brilliance. Likewise, the snow-capped mountains overlooking the peaceful shores of Lake Geneva recall the beauty and tranquility of nature, offering a majestic backdrop where calm and grandeur mingle. It is in this enchanting setting that the pearls of Saint-Gingolph come to life, reflecting the purity and splendor of their natural surroundings.
A little
HISTORY...
The Larousse des pierres précieuses tells us that it was around 1600, during the reign of Henri IV, that a certain Jaquin perfected the famous "Essence d'Orient", based on ancient recipes, which imitated the orient of pearls by using the brilliance of a layer found under fish scales, guanine. At the time, cultured pearls did not exist.
Cultured pearls, a technique in which a nucleus is inserted into an oyster to coat it with mother-of-pearl, were not really perfected until the early 1900s. The Japanese were pioneers in this field, notably Mikimoto, a jewellery reference whose founder was among the first to market this type of pearl. Called an imitation by his detractors, Mr. Mikimoto defended himself and made history by winning his case, now known as the "Paris Trial".
Until the advent of cultured pearls, there were only fine pearls on the market, i.e. those produced naturally by the oyster. Given that the natural probability of an oyster producing a jewellery-quality pearl is 1 in 10,000, it's easy to understand why this rarity was highly prized, and why imitations had their place.
THE BELLE ÉPOQUE
1920, the Roaring Twenties, Saint-Gingolph, yachters arrive by train and boat. Shuttles cross Lake Geneva several times a day to bring customers directly from Montreux. There were no fewer than 4 artisanal pearl factories, small boutiques with long queues and dozens of saleswomen welcoming women of all nationalities.
photo credit, J.-L. Seilo
photo credit, J.-L. Seilo
LA FABRIQUE
Workers were employed upstairs, and in winter, jewelry was made at home. Fishermen supplied the scales of the bleak, the lake's sardines, needed to make the pearls according to the methods described in the many patents filed. The fish were scaled using specially adapted machines, and the precious scales were sold to the factory. This craft continued until around 1974.
* designates a synthetic diamond
EPILOGUE
Yuki is the realization of a desire that was born after seeing a report on this tradition of handcrafted pearls in 2019. It was the encounter with know-how and the desire to breathe new life into tradition that enabled these creations to become a reality.
It's not so much the value of the material that's important, but the human value behind each of these pearls that gives meaning to the object. For today, as in the past, they are made by hand. The beauty and precision of the gesture, repeated over and over again, until the perfect orientation is achieved, reflecting the light and bringing the pearl to life. This priceless know-how guarantees unique, unparalleled quality, thanks to Essence d'Orient, the formula for which is still kept secret.
My sincere thanks go to Jean-Loïc Seilo, without whom this collection would never have seen the light of day. I'd like to thank him for his willingness to take on the crazy project of bringing this craft back to life. Thank you for the availability of photographic documents and the history of Les Perles de Saint-Gingolph.